A Journey to Mauritius
What is life like on the other side of
the world?
This is the question that led me from Colorado to a tiny
island nation in the Indian Ocean. The country of Mauritius is
nearly Denver's antipode, where you would end up if you dug a hole
in Coors Field all the way to the other side of the
Earth.
Mauritius is known for its heavenly beaches and tropical
wildlife. These are impressive, but like a moth lured to firelight,
as an anthropologist, I am also drawn to the country's luminous
cultures.
***
No one knows when humans first touched
their feet to the island. Perhaps it was sailors from India or
Southeast Asia millennia ago. Perhaps it was Arab traders, since
the geographer Al Idrissi included the island on a map he drew in
the 12th century AD. For certain, the Portuguese arrived in 1507,
followed in turn by the Dutch, French, and British. These nations
settled this distant outpost with grand ambitions, mostly failing
except in freeing the land of its natural bounty-most famously,
killing off the dodo bird. These colonies were a wild assortment of
people that portended the island's multicultural future: it was
made up of different Europeans, but also slaves, convicts, and
indentured workers taken from throughout Africa and
Asia.
Today, the descendants of these groups live in an ongoing
experiment in cultural co-existence. They must find a way to live
together on an island smaller than Delaware, and 33 times more
densely populated than the United States. Unlike the U.S., everyone
here converses in French or Creole, sometimes English, and
depending on their background, often Hindi, Bhojpuri, Urdu,
Marathi, Telugu, Tamil, Hakka, and/or Cantonese. Religions are as
diverse. Islamic and Catholic believers abound, but Hindus are in
the majority. The meaning of home when everyone here came from
another homeland is the tide that pushes and pulls Mauritian
society between the poles of cultural purity and cultural
fusion.
***
Several weeks
ago, I landed in Mauritius, this anthropologist's
dreamland. For the next 10 months, I'll conduct research and
teaching on the island as a US Fulbright Scholar. I'll
also continue to produce Culture Lab to share with you what life is
like here on the other side of the world.
Please note: The views expressed
on this site are entirely those of its author and do not represent
the views of the Fulbright Program, the U.S. Department of State or
any of its partner organizations.
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